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With this distinct un- derstanding I should like the reader to go with me through a winter in the Orient. It is the last of November, 1874 — the beginning of what proved to be the bitterest winter ever known iii America and Europe, and I doubt not it was the first nip of the return of the rotary glacial period — that we go on board a little Italian steamer in the harbour of Naples, reaching it in a row-boat and I AT THE GATES OF THE EAST. The deck is wot and di Hinal ; Vo Hiiviu H is in- vinible, and the whole sweep of the bay in hid by a slanting mist.

Italy has been in a shiver for a month ; snow on th(!

Alban hills and in tlie Tusculan theatre ; Home wjis as chilly as a stone tomb with tlie door left open.

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We are off Pajstum, and I can feel that its noble temple is looming there in the darkness.

This ruin is in some sort a door into, an introduction to, the Ejist.

The picture represents the Doge upon his chair of state, surrounded by that gorgeous company of fine gentlemen with whom Paul Veronese has made ua familiar, and the poor fisherman is ascending the steps of the throne and presenting the ring. emerald, set in gold, the cunning workmanship of a Samian named Theodorus. I had supposed it otherwise ; I had been led to think that modem civilization had more or less transformed the East to its own likeness ; that, for instance, the railway up the Nile had prac- tically done for that historic stream. run a red-hot imil through an omn^o, tlit; fruit will keep its freshness and remain unchanged a long time.

Having manned his fifty-oared galley, he put out a considerable distance from the island, and taking off his seal, threw it into the sea. The traveller in the Orient I suppose, always hopes to find the precious ring or the seal, a long time lost : if he should chance upon it, its story would have been already narrated. ; The Colossi of Aboo Simble, the largest in the World — Bombast — Exploits of Rameses II. The tln-usting of the iron into Egypt may arrest decay, but it does not appear to change the country.

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s/ n D □ □ □ □ D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture e.ndommageo Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^e et/ou pellicul6e Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture martquo Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound witn other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serree peut causer de "ombre ou de la distoi^tion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Commander of the Faithful, Egypt is a compound of Hack earth %nd green plants, between a pidverized mountain and a red sand Along the valley descends a river, on which the blessing of the Most High reposes both in the evening and the morning, and which rises and falls with the revolutions of the sun and moon. Leaving Suez— Ismailia— The Lotiis— A Miracle— Egyptian Steamer' —Information Sought— The Great Highway —Port Said— Abd- el-Atti again— Great Honors Lost— Farewell to Egypt 440 ti Vi -— ,± m lihvvw a ■' CHAPTEH I. ^HE Mediterranean still divides the East from the "West.

A piece of linen found at Memphis liad in each inch of warp five imndred and forty threads, or two hundred and seventy double threa- Plunder of the Tombs-Exploits of the Great Sesostris-Gigantic Statues and their Object-Skill of Ancient Artists-Criticisms ^ —Christian Churches and Pagan Temples— Soci«^ty-A Peep "ito an Ancient Harem— Statue of Memnon— Mysteries- Pictures of Heroic Girls— Women in History 178 CHAPTER XVIT. An Egyptian Carriage-Wonderful Ruins-The Great Hall of Sethi -The Largest Obelisk in The World-A City of Temples and ^^^"^^^ 196 CHAPTER XVIII. Ascending the River-An Exciting Boat Race-Inside a Sugar Factory-Setting Fire to a Town-Who Stole the Rockets ? Ascent — Negotiations for a Passage — Items about Assouan — Off for the Cataracts — Our Cataract Crew — First Impressions of the Cataract — In the Stream — Excitement — Audacious Swimmers — Close Steering — A Comical Orchestra — The Final Struggle — Victory— Above the Rapids— The Temple of Isis— Ancient Kings and Modern Conquerors 216 CHAPTER XX. Ethiopia — Relatives of the Ethiopians — Negro Land — Ancestry of the Negro— Conversion Made Easy — A Land of Negative Bless- ings — Cool air from the Desert — Abd-el-Atti's Opinions — A Land of Comfort — Nubian Costumes — Turning the Tables — The Great Desert— Sin, Grease and Taxes 235 CHAPTER XXI. Primitive Attire— The Snake Charmer— A House full of Snakes— A Writ of Ejectment— Natives— The Tomb of Mohammed- Disasters — A Dandy Pilot — Nubian Beauty— Opening a Baby's Eyes— A Nubian Pigville 244 CHAPTER XXII. Life in the Tropics— Wady Haifa— Capital of Nubia— The Centre of Fashion- -The Southern Cross— Castor Oil Plantations — Jus- tice to a Thief— Abd-el-Atti's Court— Mourning for the Dead — Extreme of our Journey — A Comical Celebration — The March of Civilization 258 CHAPTER XXIII. Two Ways to See It— Pleasures of Canal Riding— Bird's Eye View of the Cataracts— Signs of Wealth — Wady Haifa — A Nubian Belle — Classic Beauty — A Greek Bride — Interviewing a Croco- dile—Joking with a Widow — A Model Village 267 ^ CONTENTS. There was in fact no reason why we should go to Egy|jt — a remark that the reader will notice is made before he has a chance to make it — and there is no reason why any one indis- posed to do so should accompany us.

- Striking Contrasts-A Jail-The Kodior Judge-What ^e saw at Assouan-A Gale-Ruins of Kom Ombos-Mysterious Move- ment— Laud of Eternal Leisure 201 CHAPTER XIX. Passing the Cataract of the Nile-Nubian Hills in Sight-Island of Elephantine-Ownership of the Cataract -Difficulties of the Xll. Jf information is desired, there are whole libraries of excellent books about the land of the Pharaohs, ancient and modern, historical, archaeological, statistical, theoretical, geographical ; if amusement is wanted, there are also excellent book-a, facetious and sentimental.

young gii'iu uuioii -iests, Jews, Persian Parsees, Algerines, Hindoos, negroes from Darfoor, and flat-nosed blacks from beyond Khartoom.

The traveller has come into a country of holiday which is perpetual.

A poor fisherman of the Lido, hauling his net one morning, took a fish that had in his stomach the gold ring with which the Doge had wed the Adriatic a few months before. r AOE, At Gezereh — Aboo Yusef tho Owncx' — Cairo Again —A Queatiou- The Khedive — Solomon and the Viceroy — The Khedive's Fami- ly Expenses — Another Joseph — Personal Government — Docks of Cairo— Raising Mud— Popular Superstitions— Leave-Taking 398 CHAPTER XXXIV. Visiting a Harem — A Re jeption— The Khedive at Home— Ladies of the Harem — Wife of Tiifik Pasha— The Mummy — Tho Wooden Man — Discoveries of Mariette Bey — Egypt and Greece Compared— Learned Opinions 411 CHAPTER XXXV. Leaving our Dahabeeh — The Baths in Cairo — Curious Mode of Exe- cution — The Guzeereh Palace— Empress Eugenie's Sleeping Room — Medallion of Benjamin Franklin in Egypt — Heliopolis — ^The Bedaween Bride — Holy Places — The Resting Place of the Virgin Mary — Fashionable Drives — The Shoobra Palace — Forbidden Books- -A Glimpse of a Bevy of Ladies — Uncom- fortable Guardians 421 CHAPTER XXXVI. Following the Track of the Children of Israel — Routes to Suez — Temples — Where was the Red Sea Crossed ? And I suppose there is not now and never will b3 another woman in the East handsome enough to risk a world for.

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